Sunday, October 10, 2010

Shopping in Old Cairo - Oct 10




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Mosque built by the original Mohammed Ali






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What a City!

This place is CRAZY! Cairo Population 22 MILLION and NO stop lights! Everyone just charges ahead until they're locked in, and then everyone just starts beeping their horns and pushing forward in every little available space. You take your life in your hands when you cross the street--our bus driver slammed on his brakes and almost hit a person on a scooter. Stores are open 24/7 and people are out walking around and shopping at 4:00 a.m. I don't think these people ever sleep.

What a hotel! I could (already AM) used to this style of hotel. Four Season's Nile Plaza is a-maz-ing!! I'm typing on our 19th floor balcony overlooking the Nile watching the boats and listening to a lot of car beeps below. Luckily, our sleeping area is two rooms away from our balcony, so we're able to sleep at night.

This a.m. We went to the oldest mosque in Cairo. It was built within the old Roman walled city. The city itself was conquered by the Muslims around 900 A.D. The mosque is made of all alabaster and has several domes and minarets--it's very beautiful. The floors are covered with big rugs so everyone can pray on the ground, and everyone has to either remove their shoes before entering, or put on shoe covers over their shoes. There were several school groups there, as well as lots of other tour groups. Our group sat on the floor in a corner while Ahmed (our Egyptologist) gave us a primer on the Islamic faith. While we were listening to Ahmed and asking questions, one of the school groups surrounded us and all these 5th graders started taking pictures of us with their cell phones. Probably just because we were their first American encounter in their young lives.

We left the mosque and drove to "Islamic Cairo," and walked along the streets of the Khan El-Khalili, the old walled city of Cairo. The streets are one big sensory overload bazaar for SHOPPING! As you walk along, each vendor tries to get you to buy his wares . . . "Make my Day. Spend your money here.". "I have what you looking for.". "Lady, how much scarf you want? I had Ahmed show me where I could buy REAL papyrus, so I bought a couple papyrus paintings. Most vendors sell papyrus made from banana leaves and it's poor quality, but the real papyrus has a fabric-like texture and won't tear like the knock-off papyrus.

Now for the real challenge . . . We'll be trying to fit everything we bought in our tiny suitcases! My fabulous dream trip has come to an end, and we'll be back home on Tues, Oct.12. We're hoping to get back into the swing of things this week because my mother is coming over and we have tickets to see Bill Cosby at the Merrill Auditorium this weekend! I would love to come back to Cairo in 20 yrs. to see the changes, but if I don't make it back, I'll be totally content with all the wonderful memories of our trip to both Kenya and Egypt. I think our next big trip will be David's dream trip--Australia--in the unknown future.


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Location:Cairo

Sat., Oct.9, 2010

We flew on EgyptAir from Luxor to Cairo early this a.m. Once in downtown Cairo, we immediately started a walking tour of "Coptic Cairo," the ancient part of the city that was Christian, but now historical areas and museums. We went underground to an old fortress that was used by the Romans--complete with thick fortress doors and reinforced with metal sheeting. We saw the "hanging church" which was built so part of it hangs over the old Roman fortress. We also went to the Coptic Museum which was very Byzantine and held collections from the beginning of A.D.--paintings, old Coptic tombstones which blended Egyptian gods with the shell-shaped tombstones, Coptic Pope's clothing over the centuries, etc.

Switching religions, we visited the oldest synagogue in Egypt. The "Ben Ezra,". There are only 200 Jews in the entire Country of Egypt. Around 600 A.D., Egypt was Christian until it was conquered by the Muslims. Everyone who converted was free from taxes, so most everyone converted.

The people here are very nice and friendly, although it's a male-dominated society. They say that men and women are equal, but Men can dress however they'd like, but most women keep their head "veiled." Married women usually wear black "veils" and single girls can wear colored veils. Boys play all day, and girls help their mothers with cooking, washing, etc. This is also a cash-driven society. If you ask for directions, you have to pay "baksheesh," a tip. If you use a public bathroom, you have to pay the attendant. All of our bus drivers were tipped, and even the security guy on the bus is tipped daily. Egyptian men will jump into your picture and then demand to be paid--luckily, we didn't fall for that one. Police at each historical site will try to show you "secret places" in exchange for baksheesh. If you ask anyone to take your photo, they"d expect payment--but we knew about that one before we came here, so everyone just asks their tour mates to take their photos.

On Sat. Night we went to dinner at a family's home in Giza. We were greeted by a retired couple, their adult daughter, and her two young daughters. (The adult daughter lives in her own home with her husband and two daughters.) We got to ask them questions about Egyptian life and their Muslim faith. According to the adult daughter, Amyra, girls will usually start veiling themselves at the age of 14-15. After they go to college, it's an individual choice on whether or not to be veiled. Amyra's oldest daughter is 9 yrs old, and Amyra (the girls' mom) decided to veil herself just 6 yrs.ago. Amyra's wedding photo looked just like ours--white dress with no veil. The kids have the same 12 yrs of school before going to university. One major difference is the school/work week. Muslims' holy day is on Friday, so their weekend is Friday and Sat. At 9:00 p.m. Amyra and her two young daughters left to go to their own home in order to get the girls ready for school on Sun. A.M.

On Sunday we'll visit the oldest mosque in Egypt--The Mohammad Ali .




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Location:Cairo

Giza (left of Nile) and Cairo (right of Nile) at night


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Cairo at night pic Oct 9


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Cairo - Nile view from our room pic Oct 9





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Inside of "hanging church" of Cairo - pic Oct 9





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Saturday, October 9, 2010

Whirling Dervish - Oct 8

Last night on board the boat we had two performances, one a belly dance and the second a Whirling Dervish



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Luxor Temple pic - Oct 8




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Location:Abd Al Latif Boltiya,,Egypt

Julie steering the boat - Oct 8

All navigation on the Nile is done by site.


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Location:On the Nile

Temple of Hathor - Oct 8


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Location:Kornish Al Nile,,Egypt

Cleopatra

Cleopatra is on left.



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Location:Qena, Egypt

Temple of Hathor pic

Preservation work after removing the fire soot from the temple of Hathor. These are the original untouched colors.



Tourist Safety

We are getting set to visit the temple honoring Hathor.
There are plenty of visible police, and I am certain hidden forces are providing safety to the many visitors to Egypt.
We also noticed that most everyone has cell phones, including the fishermen and farmers on the Nile.


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Location:Qena, Egypt

Last day on the Nile

Fri., Oct. 8, 2010

We overnighted in Quena and in the a.m. we visited the Temple of Hathor--goddess of beauty. This temple is the most preserved of all the temples. The ceilings were beautiful. Over the years, different peoples have occupied the temples and tombs--nomads, Greeks, Romans, etc. Each group usually used the temples for shelter and made fires inside the temples--which made the ceilings black. However, just 6 months ago, a new technique was used to remove the black smokey ceilings to reveal the beautiful colors underneath. This was a fairly new temple in comparison to others--this temple is dated from about 1,000 b.c. On the outside walls of this temple is the best depiction of Cleopatra that survives. She is shown with her son, Caesarian, offering gifts to the god Ahmun. When this site was found in the 1800's, they lifted off some of the granite floors, and found another ancient temple beneath the current one!

We returned to our boat for lunch and set sail for Luxor. We arrived in Luxor at 5:00 p.m. and went to visit the Luxor temple at sunset. Built by Amenhotep III, with modern-day uplighting on the 50 foot columns, this temple was beautiful. Luxor is changing quickly. The governorate (state) of Luxor is going to clear all houses, businesses, a church, and a mosque from the area between the Luxor Temple to the Karnak Temple. They are in the process of excavating all the property to return the "Avenue of Sphinxes.". It's about a one mile road between the Luxor and Karnak Temples, and I guess the local people are furious that their property is being taken by eminent domain.

We had our farewell dinner on the boat, and afterwards were treated to a show with both a belly dancer and a whirling dervish with his colorful capes and skirts. We're leaving the boat on Sat. A.m. To fly back to Cairo for a couple days before ending this incredible odyssey (yeah, yeah, I know an odyssey is Greek).

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Location:Sailing back to Luxor

Abydos 2 - Oct 7





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Abydos 1 - Oct 7

This is the cartouche that people appear to see a spaceship, tank, and jet.


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Picture along Nile 2 - oct 7





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Picture along Nile - Oct 7







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Road to Abydos 6 - Oct 7






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Road to Abydos 5 - Oct 7




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Road to Abydos 3 - Oct 7


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Road to Abydos 2 - Oct 7




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Road to Abydos 1 - Oct 7


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Thursday, October 7, 2010

Cruising the Nile to Nagaa Hammadi - Abydos

We spent much of the day cruising North on the Nile from Luxor to Nagaa Hammadi. The Nile valley where we travelled today is very lush with a few towns and many small villages. Along the way we saw the men in their boats casting their nets for fish and the women were washing clothes and dishes along the bank. Many of the children were playing in the water or helping their mothers. Most of the people we encountered had big smiles and waved and shouted greetings.
Once we got to Nagaa Hammadi we had a one hour bus trip to go to Abydos temple. Julie was under the weather and decided to stay on the boat to be ready for tomorrow's adventure. We rode in a caravan of two tourist police vehicles, two vans, and two buses. Along the way we saw very visible police protection.
When we arrived at Abydos Temple we saw another fabulous structure that dates back to 1250BC. This temple was dedicated to Osiris, Lord of the Netherworld. The temple is known for its list of all the kings of Egypt and for being the burial place for pre-dynastic kings and pharaohs dating back to the fourth millennium BC. The other fun item is one cartouche that appears to depict a jet, a tank, and a spaceship. This one cartouche has lead some to believe aliens built the monuments and temples throughout Egypt. Our Egyptologist said it occurred accidentally when Ramses II repaired this part of the temple.
Pictures to follow.



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Location:Al - Waqf,Egypt

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Baby Vendors


Even little kids learn to sell in order to help out their families.

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Location:Luxor

Broken pillars of the past.


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Location:Ramses III Temple, Luxor

Pharaoh Hatshepsut's tomb built into the side of the pyramid-shaped hill


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Location:Valley of the Queens

Valley of the Kings and Queens

We'd., Oct. 6, 2010

What a day! One of the most significant places in Egyptian history--and they don't allow cameras!

We left for the Valley of the Kings at 7:00 a.m. We took a motor boat ride from our dock on the east side of the Nile to the west side of the Nile. Tombs are always built on the west bank (of the Nile). Pharaohs from the New Kingdom (1250 BC) found that the sands of Luxor formed natural pyramids. They could save money by having their tombs built into the sides of these mountainous sand dunes. Large tunnels were built with storage rooms for offerings in their after-lives. There are about 63 tombs that have been found by archeologists, and most of them are elaborately decorated with paintings of the gods, hieroglyphics, and pictures of their enemies being defeated, etc. We visited four tombs: Ramses III, Ramses IV, Ramses IX, and the unfinished tomb of King Tut. David also visited the tomb of Tutmoses III.

King Tut's mummified body was on display inside his tomb. He was in a glass case, temperature and humidity controlled. KIng Tut's gilded wooden coffin is also on display there. The "Boy King" died when he was 19 yrs old, and the story says that his tomb isn't as elaborate as other pharaohs because a "high priest" gave Tut the priest's tomb.

Next, we went to the Valley of the Queens to visit women's tombs. Hatshepsut was the first female pharaoh, and her temple and tomb are incredible!

The best tomb, however, was that of Queen Nefertari. You have to arrange through your tour group -- well in advance-- to go into this tomb. They let in only a couple groups a day. The paintings and colors looked like they were completed yesterday! It was just beautiful. Every hieroglyphic was painted, every inch of the ceiling was painted with blue covered with white stars and a long register of yellow/gold hieroglyphics down the middle. The large chiseled figures of people had on beautiful patterned dresses, a multi-colored collar necklace, and both arm and legs cuffs.

On our way back to the boat, we stopped at Ramses III temple and palace. It's in pretty bad shape, but you can just imagine how beautiful it was in it's hay-day.

Now a word about vendors! Every vendor yells at you to buy their stuff. They crowd into you and push things in your face and hands saying, "$50 dollar? Is very nice. How much you want? Lady, Lady, how much you want?". We were taught to say No, thank you by saying the phrase "la'a shock-run". (I don't know how to spell it, so I spelled it phonetically.).

We had no fewer than 4-5 vendors in our face at the same time, offering scarves, scarabs, and statuettes. They followed us all the way back to our bus--in our faces and saying "O.k. 40 dollar.". The closer we got to our bus, the lower the prices. "O.k., 30 dollar.". "Lady, Lady. O.k. 25 dollar.". Our Egyptologist told us that we were all ready to handle the vendors in India now that we got our training in Egypt!



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Tombs are built into the sides of these pyramid-shaped mountains.

Location:Luxor

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Columns at Karnak Temple, Luxor


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Location:Kornish Al Nile,,Egypt

Columns with large obelisk


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Location:Karnak Temple, Luxor

Avenue of the sphinx


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Location:Karnak Temple

My shoes

Look, Dana! I've been wearing the shoes that you picked out for me! I think the hieroglyphics say "Thanks, Dana M. The shoes have worked out great!"


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Location:Karnak Temple, Luxor

Painted Columns

Look closely and you can see some paint at the top of the columns.


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Location:Karnak Temple, Luxor

Tues. Oct. 5, 2010

We went to the biggest temple in the world this a.m. Karnak Temple dedicated to The God, Ahmun. Did you know that our word "Amen" derives from this Egyptian god? This temple has an "Avenue of sphinx's" as well as 131 columns. One of the Indiana Jones movies was filmed at Karnak Temple because of all the columns.

Also, one of the first successful c-sections was performed on Cleopatra. Her son's name was Caesarian--thus, Caesarian section! who knew?

We're going to the Luxor Museum this afternoon. Just like the museum in Cairo, there are no photos allowed.

Temperatures are very steamy. Our low temperature in Egypt so far has been 105 degrees. Our highest temp. so far has been 112 degrees. Most days seem to run right around 110 degrees.

We're going to two temples in Luxor tomorrow, and we're leaving the boat at 7:00a.m. to beat the heat. Luxor (ancient Thebes) holds 1/3 of the WORLD'S monuments. The entire city of Luxor has just been named a "museum" because of all the temples and tombs and archeological finds--including King Tut. We'll be seeing King Tut's mummified body tomorrow--can't wait!
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Location:Luxor /Thebes

KIng Don and QUeen Tricia

TX couple who made their crowns from the paper chef's hat given out at a cooking class on the boat. Our Egyptologist Ahmed in black


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Location:Kornish Al Nile,,Egypt

Author Clive Cussler

relaxing on his balcony with his wife. Actually, we were all watching our boat move through the lock. Our boat was lowered almost 20 feet in the lock before proceeding to Luxor.


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Egyptian Night!

Oct. 4, 2010.


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A quiet day

Oct. 4, 2010

We went to a temple dedicated to the crocodile god, in the a.m., and to the Edfu temple in the afternoon. We cruised on the Nile to Esna, but once we got there, we found out that it's a special holiday for Esna and no one could visit places, so we continued on to Luxor at night.

Almost forgot. . . Jeanne told me that there probably would be someone famous on our trip. There is, sort of. Clive Cussler, a writer of mystery novels is on our boat with his wife. David has read a few of his books, and Clive C has had a couple of his books turned into movies (but they haven't been blockbusters). Sahara with Matthew McConnoughy, and Raising the Titanic. My goal while we're all trapped on this boat together is to ask Cussler for a picture with David, and to get his autograph. Everyone on our boat of 26 passengers is here through Abercrombie & Kent, but some have different guides. We have the largest group of 16 people, and Cussler and his wife are having a private tour with their own guide. We all follow the same tour schedule, though.

Tonight was dress up night. Everyone bought "galabayas" . . The traditional Egyptian clothing. . And we wore them to dinner on the boat and then tried to learn some Egyptian dances--No, it wasn't "Walk like an Egyptian."





W

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Location:Kom Ombo

Oct. 3, 2010



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Location:Kornish Al Nile,,Egypt

Monday, October 4, 2010

A Shoe Maker

SHOES!


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Location:Kornish Al Nile,,Egypt

Aswan Spice Market

Oct. 3, 2010


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Ladies


See the ladies carrying things on their heads?

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Location:Aswan

Nubian Museum

Oct. 3, 2010

What a great museum--it gives a really comprehensive review of the history of the Egyptian people, and the influences and changes made by pharaohs, Greeks, Christians, Romans, etc.


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Philae Temple

Overlooking Lake Nasser, which runs to the Nile.


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Location:Island of Agilka

MS Sunboat III




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Location:Our boat

Oct. 3, 2010--Happy Birthday, Carrie!

Inside our Nile River boat

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Location:Aswan


Aswan Dam

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Oct. 2, 2010

Our day of highs and lows. Our group of 16 checked out of the Four Season's at 2:30 AM! to catch a short flight to Abu Simbel near the Sudan border. After arriving at the airport, we learned that our flight (Egypt Air) was delayed until 7:00a.m. The temple at Abu Simbel was so worth the wait. It was built by Ramses II at about 2,000 BC and had been covered with sand and silt for thousands of years. It was discovered again in the late 1800's, and it was actually taken apart, numbered each piece, and relocated 160 feet back from Lake Nasser from 1964-1969 with funding from UNESCO. It was relocated after the Aswan Dam was built. It was one of the highlights of Egypt for me!

We were going to fly back to Aswan after visiting Abu Simbel, but our flight was delayed again. We sat on the plane for two hrs. before asking everyone to de-plane and go back to the terminal. There was talk about bussing all the passengers back to Aswan, but luckily the plane's problem was fixed and we returned to Aswan by plane at about 6:00 p.m. If we had to bus back to Aswan, we would have "convoyed" with other busses and a police escort because the area isn't really safe, I guess.

After a long day at the Abu Simbel airport, we all checked into the MS Sunboat III--where we'll be for the next week, cruising along the Nile River.
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Location:Abu Simbel Airport


O.k. I bought a REALLY nice bauble in Egypt. This is me bargaining with the guy over the necklace that I bought.

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Location:Sakkara




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