As we leave this most bountiful and beautiful land--and yet so harsh--we will always remember the hospitality of all our hosts at both Larsen's Camp in Samburu (Jeremy) and the Masai Mara Olonana (Vincent and Christine)! We will take with us a lifetime of spectacular memories.

Now, on to the pyramids.

A Masai baby at her Mom's feet while Julie shops for souvenirs.

A Masai Warrior

Julie negotiating prices with ENTIRE Masai Village! We would offer a price, then the men would talk, and the women (on the perimeter) would be yelling out to the men, and we went back and forth until we finally agreed on a price.

Click on bottom right for "Older Posts"

Carcass of a wildebeest. The lands were littered with dead animals in various stages of decay--from "freshly killed" to white scattered bones.

Warthog eating on his elbows, with wildebeests lined up at the river bank ready to cross.

Wildebeests headings towards river

And now you don't!!! Look at the little splash of water on the left, near the banks--it's the splash of the crocodile taking down the wildebeests.

It's the Circle of Life . . .

From the day we arrive on the
planet And blinking, step into the sun There's more to see than can ever
be seen More to do than can ever be done There's far too much to take in
here More to find than can ever be found But the sun rolling high
Through the sapphire sky Keeps great and small on the endless round
It's the Circle of Life And it moves us all Through despair and hope
Through faith and love Till we find our place On the path unwinding
In the Circle The Circle of Life  It's the Circle of Life
And it moves us all Through despair and hope Through faith and love
Till we find our place On the path unwinding
In the Circle The Circle of Life 

Wildebeests on rocks. Look below the little water falls--those are the heads of two wildebeests crossing BACK over the river after they had already crossed once. Now you see them . . .

The Circle of Life

Tues., Sept. 28, 2010

Today was a relaxing day. We went out for an early a.m. safari and ate breakfast "whilst" (tee hee) sitting under an Acacia tree. Sarah and George were leaving on Tuesday, and Sarah wanted to see a close-up of a baboon and a leopard before she left. Her wish was Vincent's command (the safari guide). Even before we could start safari, several baboons were sitting on and near the road. A half hour later, we spotted a leopard. Sarah said, "O.k., if it's THAT easy, then I want to see an animal kill another animal."

We drove to a location where the wildebeests migrate and have to cross the Mara River to make their way to Tanzania--with crocodiles just WAITING for those wildebeests' legs to grab and drown under the water. The wildebeests all line up at the bank of the river and then turn around in fear. Then they returned to the riverbank and we thought they were going to cross. They all turned around again. Then they all went back to the riverbank (for the third time). Once one starts crossing, then they'll all go in--and suddenly, they did!! But then, once they got to the other side, several of them didn't find their Moms or siblings, so they crossed BACK over the river, and you guessed it . . . In the blink of an eye, we saw a wildebeest being snapped by crocodile and went completely under way. I almost cried seeing that--It was like watching my dogs being eaten by a croc in the water.

Later that afternoon, we walked from our camp with a Masai tribal member up to a Masai Village high on a hill. We learned that only men wear shoes because "ladies" do not wear shoes. We saw cow hides being dried that will be used for mattresses, and we learned in both Samburu and Masai that their main diet consists of meat, and a mixture of milk and cow's blood--Ewww! David tried, in vein, to make a fire w/two sticks--with no success--so much for being a Boy Scout. We shopped in their "market" and have lots of fun things for our peeps at home.

We're leaving on Thurs. morning to fly to Nairobi, and then on to Cairo. Pyramids, Here we Come!!! :-)

The migration of the wildebeests

That's us with one foot in Tanzania and one foot in Kenya. That's the "big" boundary marker for the two countries. (Sarah and George are in the front--from England)

Our picnic lunch in Tanzania. That's Vincent, our guide who's been w/us every day.

Samburu orphans who sang a song for us.

A Samburu tribal dance performed just for us. The higher the boys can jump, the "stronger" they are perceived by their fellow tribal members.

The rare rhino w/ baby behind it. We didn't think that we'd see one.

Ever seen a resting giraffe?

An OLD Simba. Manes get darker as they grow older. How come that doesn't happen w/us? Lions live until about 15 yrs. old, and our guide estimated his age at 13. He was lying right in the middle of the road and no one could pass him. Eventually, about 10 safari trucks came around, everyone started "shooting" (w/their cameras), and he didn't budge for about 1/2 hr.

Simba in the Mara. Masai Mara lions have longer manes than Samburu lions.

Entrance to our tent in Masai Mara. Pictures aren't really in order--sorry.

Click on "Older Posts" at bottom right for more photos, etc.

Mom and her cubs at Samburu. If you look closely, you can see that Mom is staring at a crocodile.

Our tent at Masai Mara

My first lion spotting in Samburu.

My first leopard spotting in Samburu.

Timid Hyenas cooling off. They run if you try to get close to them--this is with a telephoto lens. Those are wildebeests in the background. They look like small moose.

A hippo having some yummy grass for breakfast. Our safaris started at 6:30 A.M., and again at 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon, so we could catch the animals feeding. Click on "Older Posts" at bottom right.

A very good kitty. This is the cheetah that was just WAITING for us to come and take his photo on the way to Tanzania. (To my girls at the Haan who remember the men's clothing, they pronounce Tanzania "Ten-Zegna." Tee Hee :-)

Smile for your close-up!

Yes, we really WERE in Kenya and took these beautiful pictures

Samburu elephant getting out of water across from our camp (Larsen's). Click on "Older Posts" at bottom right to see more.

Check out the croc and hippo standoff!

The crash balloon landing was all worth it when this beautiful table setting was waiting for us with a champagne breakfast.

Our crash landing on a balloon ride. David and I are on the bottom right.

Samburu mud/cow dung home

Baby elephants in the mud, while the mom on the left has a "twisted tusk." This can happen when she's tried to push down something that was too hard (an Acacia tree?)

Cheetah after breakfast. The wildebeest carcass was several feet away and vultures were "finishing it off."

Photos

I've been having a hard time attaching photos--everything here is "dial up," and they keep losing the service.

Photos

PHOTOS AT LAST!

Most Exciting Day Yet! We went to Tanzania!

Monday, Sept. 27, 2010

We went for a BALLOON RIDE --EARLY--over the Masai Mara! Not tethered--just floating through the air on a 16-person basket! What a trip! The basket is separated into 5 compartments--four people in each of the end compartments, and the pilot in the middle compartment. To get into the basket that was turned on its side, we climbed in, sat down on a bench--but, because the basket was on its side, we were lying on our backs! They filled the balloon, and we slowly lifted off and up over the trees and river. When we came to lowland plains, the pilot brought us low to the ground. Now here's the fun part . . . landing. We had to sit down and hold on to the handles. As soon as we were almost on the ground, the pilot said "this is going to be a bumpy landing!" We hit termite mounds--the basket rolled over on its side, we were all on our backs and bumping our heads against the back of the basket (which had padding on it for SHORT people, but since I'm average height, I bumped my head on the wooden rim of the basket quite a few times. ) And yes, they made us sign waivers of liability before flying :-)

We had a champagne breakfast waiting! As soon as we landed, a swarm of laborers arrived at the scene to pack up the balloon. Others took us on a short ride to an area of the plains where they had breakfast waiting!! The table was set near a beautiful Acacia tree--It was all such a SPECTACULAR morning.

After breakfast, we began our journey back from the balloon ride where we met up with our regular driver, Vincent, who is a Masai tribal member and lives in a tribal village. He is 26, has 3 kids, and his family all live together w/his parents in a mud tribal home. I asked Vincent if he had to give a dowry when he married his wife. He said yes: 10 cows. I asked him if that was the usual number of cows, and he said it was usually 5 cows for a marriage. I said "How come you had to give 10 cows then?" He just laughed and said "I don't know, I just did." His English is perfect and of course he wears Olonana uniforms while at work. I asked Vincent if he could drive us to the Serengeti in Tanzania. It was about 2.5 hours over bumpy roads. On the way, we tried to look for a rhino (Sarah and George from England were with us), but with no luck. Sarah REALLY wanted to see a rhino since they're so rare--and I REALLY wanted to see a cheetah since they're so elusive. Once we reached the middle of no where, Vincent stopped, looked out, grabbed his binoculars, and said THERE'S A CHEETAH!!! It was lying beneath an Acacia tree in the shade. He started driving closer to the cheetah. There are lots of park rangers who drive around and make sure the Safari drivers are not driving "off road." You're supposed to stay on the designated roads. However, Vincent started off-roading towards the cheetah! He said that "no one comes out this far" and that "we wouldn't see anyone" (We were half way to Tanzania). We got within 15 feet of the cheetah!! I was DYING!!! Vincent said that cheetahs are not shy, and he was right. I thought that the cheetah would run when we got close, but he just laid there (or is it "lied there?") and rested after his morning breakfast of a wildebeest that was being picked over by a flock of vultures about 200 feet away. Sarah (22 yrs. old) was a little disappointed that she wouldn't be able to see a rhino, but I told her not to give up hope for the rest of the day.

Along the way to Tanzania, we saw thousands of wildebeests and zebras (and elephants, giraffes, etc. and HYENAS) We never saw ANY trucks on the way to Tanzania. Once we got to Tanzania--the Serengeti--the only thing that marked the boundary between Kenya and Tanzania was a white triangular concrete post that said K / T . (Kenya on this side, and Tanzania on this side). The 5 of us posed for pictures (George, Sarah, Vincent, David and I).

Vincent brought a picnic lunch from Olonana and he set up the picnic on the hood of his truck--complete with table cloth and everything. We sat under an Acacia tree in Tanzania and had a wonderful lunch by just watching the wildebeests, zebras and elephants all heading in a line--in the same direction.

On the rocky road back to Olonana, guess what we saw? A RHINO!!!! Vincent spotted it from very far away. The rhino was hidden behind bushes with a baby. Since the rhino was Sarah's wish for the day, Sarah asked Vincent if he could "off road." We were getting close to the Masai Mara, and Vincent was skeptical about off roading since there were more rangers patroling that area. Vincent said he would go up to the rhino really quickly to take a couple photos and then leave quickly. We all got awesome pictures of Mom rhino and her baby. Sarah was so excited that she got her picture of a rhino, and I told her that now there are 10 rhinos in the Mara since Mom had a baby! Shortly after we left the spot, another safari truck came looking for the rhino (the drivers all know that it was the rhinos "territory.") They chose not to off road when they got there and I saw the truck driving away. Shortly after that, a ranger truck came whizzing by us--phew--we didn't get caught off-roading!

Tommorow: Last safari and a visit to the Masai Tribal Village for another tour and I want to get another tribal collar. The collar necklaces are kind of expensive but worth it because they take several days for a woman to make by hand.

We Found Simba !

Sun., Sept. 26, 2010 -- Happy 15th anniversary to us.

We left Samburu today and flew to the Masai Mara. The flight from Samburu to the Mara was longer than our flight from Nairobi to Samburu . . . but a lot less bumpy. We landed at FOUR different camp air strips to drop off other passengers before reaching Olonana Camp. There's so much less bureaucracy here. You land, your driver is waiting to pick you up at the plane, and he comes directly to the plane and off-loads your luggage from the plane, and you're on your way within 5 minutes. No waiting on runways or in terminals!

Once we flew over the Mara, we immediately saw "The Great Migration" of thousands of wildebeests grazing along the Mara plains as they make their way back to Tanzania from Kenya. The grasslands have almost been exhausted in the Mara, so their go to the Serengeti in Tanzania for new grasslands. After the March rains in Kenya, the wildebeests and zebras will make their way back to Kenya again.

On our way to the Olonana Camp (which is beautiful), we saw a mommy warthog with three babies. They're so cute. They look like baby piglets, but black. Our "tent" is right on the Mara River with several hippos popping their heads in and out of the river. The surroundings at Masai Mara are so much different than Samburu. Samburu was a hot, dry, dusty savannah; and Masai Mara has regular rains, so it's much more green and lush. There is supposed to be a lot more wildlife there than in Samburu because there are more grasses, trees, water, etc.

On our first safari in the Mara this afternoon, we saw a male LION with a big MANE!! The lions that we saw in Samburu were beautiful, but they have short manes. Besides the lion at the Mara, we saw the rare rhino from a very long distance and could see him only with ur binoculars (thanks, Katie). We saw another leopard and lots more elephants and giraffes. Kenya is very conscientious about energy use. The hotels, resorts, and camps all turn off the electricity from 11:00 - 6:00 during the day, and 11:00 p.m.- 6:00 a.m. So every night we've rushed to get clean after dusty safaris before the electricity goes off.

Another day without spotting the elusive cheetah! There is one other couple from England touring w/us and "Sarah" wanted to see a rhino up close because there are supposed to be only 9 rhinos left in Kenya. We saw it from a distance, but I told her that I was sure we'd see one tomorrow.

We had an "Angelina Jolie" Moment!

Friday, Sept. 25, 2010


Safari at 6:00 a.m. Morning brings out the animals who are looking for food. We saw the African antelope, giraffes, and a prowling LEOPARD! The safari drivers are so funny. They all have cb radios, and when someone spots an animal, the driver announces it to all the other drivers, and all the other safari jeeps race their tourists to that location.

We visited a real tribal village of 260 people. They herd goats and cows. Our driver arranged for us to pay the village elder to get a tour of their enclosed village. They were in traditional dress and they welcomed us with songs and dances. Their houses are about 4 feet tall and about 30 sq. Feet inside. The roofs are made from sticks and old clothing mixed in with mud and cow dung. The walls are also a mixture of mud and ccow dung. Most have 6 or 8 kids who sleep on cow skins. They showed us how to start a fire with two sticks and cow dung. Nothing goes to waste in the tribal villages--not even the cow waste!

I had my "Angelina Jolie" moment when the tribal elder took us to a different part of the camp for the orphaned children who's moms died from aids. They asked for another donation for the children, and how can you say "no" to that? It was very emotional to see little 2-3-4 yr old kids sing songs for you with hand gestures and everything, knowing that their being raised by a teenage girl in the tribe. The kids are also kept in a separate mud house. It was really sad. I also bought a couple of the beaded collar necklaces from the women in the tribe. When you negotiate a price, you negotiate with the whole tribe, and not with just the woman who made the necklace.

After that incredible visit, we went for another safari and found a leopard just hanging on a branch of an acacia tree. It was so beautiful. Then, we saw a HUGE herd of elephants--probably 25-30 of them all together! Their ears were flapping in an effort to cool themselves, and it makes their ears look so huge when they flap them. Two of the baby elephants played by twisting thir trunks around each other and locking their little tusks. It was also heartbreaking to see a huge elephant trying to keep up with the herd while trying to walk on just 3 legs. He held up his one of his back legs and tried to carry all of his weight on the other 3 legs.

We Dined with Elephants!

FRIDAY, SEPT. 24, 2010

OMG, PERFECT DAY IN EVERY WAY!! I can't attach photos now, however. No wi-fi for IPad, and the computer at our Samburu Camp has about 1mg of storage left. We flew from Nairobi on Friday, Sept 24th to Samburu (Survivor did a series in Samburu). The flight was a 10-passenger plane that rocked and bounced the entire way--Bonine to the rescue!! We dropped off other plane passengers at different camps before reaching our camp by plane. We would land on a dirt "air strip," drop off passengers, and take off again. Our jeep was waiting for us on the air strip and drove us 25 miles on a major road--think of driving 25 miles on a road with rumble strips, two-foot bumps, and two-foot holes, with lots of rocks thrown in for good measure.

Larsen's Camp is BEAUTIFUL! We're living in a tent for two days, but it has wood floors, and real bathrooms!! It's right beside the river. We ate lunch lunch at the river, and suddenly four elephants appeared on the other side of the river. They came to get a drink!! It was AMAZING!! We have already been on three safaris, and we've seen LIONS (Simba is Swahili for lion--who knew?) We've also seen zebras, giraffes, crocs, "dikdiks" (which look like teeny tiny baby deer), and even rabbits and donkeys!! Who knew that donkeys and rabbits lived in the African "bush?" It's so cool to "find" the animals when you're driving around the bush. We even saw the remains (bones) of a zebra and baby elephant that had been killed and eaten by lions. We're living INSIDE THE MOVIE "The Lion King!" "Chui" (pronounced "chewy") means leopard in Swahili.

People here are required to take English through the 8th grade, and then most of them revert back to Swahili, but most everyone speaks English pretty well.

We're Here!

Oh my gosh! We're in NAIROBI, KENYA!!!! If we were world jet-setters, I would say (ever so non-chalantly) "If it's Thursday, this must be Nairobi." But since we're Soooo NOT part of the jet-setting world, I'm saying "omg, Omg, OMG!!! We're in NAIROBI!! It's 11:30 p.m. on Thursday, and it's 4:30 p.m. on the east coast. We left Boston at night, and we arrived in Nairobi at night, so no exciting pictures yet--just from the airport! We're leaving at 9:00 a.m. on Friday (2:00 a.m. Fri. on the east coast) to fly to Samburu Wildlife Reserve in northern Kenya. Talk about airport security: At customs in Kenya, they take digital imprints of your fingerprints, and digital eye imprints. Security checked the jeep before leaving the airport--twice--and once we arrived at the Serena Hotel in Nairobi, security did a metal sweep under the jeep.

When we left our house on Wednesday, we found out that our Boston flight was delayed, so we scrambled to get another flight--no beds/cocoons--but we had bulkhead seats, so it was o.k. Off to bed! :-)

Oh, follow my blog by signing up at Google Groups--it's free!

Itinerary Page Five

Click on photo just once to enlarge. :-)

We'll be in one of the Presidential Suites.

Itinerary Page Four

Click on photo just once to enlarge. :-)

Itinerary Page Three

Click on photo to enlarge. :-)

Itinerary Page Two

Click on image to enlarge it! :-)

Almost Ready to Go!

Got the camera--now we just need to learn how to use it--SOON! Got the house sitter--Nicole is not happy, but at least we'll know that the pups are being taken care of. David and I each bought "Tilley" safari hats today at the TripQuipment store in Falmouth. It's such a fun store if you're taking a trip. We're being limited to 44 lbs. of luggage each. On safari, we're limited to one bag, 33 lbs. each--for a WEEK!!! Heck, my SHOES alone would weigh more than that!!! Everyone keeps saying to limit my shoes to TWO PAIRS--ARE THEY NUTS!!!!????!!! I'm posting our formal itinerary for Egypt, but I have to post each page as a separate post--otherwise, it would take too long to download all the photos. There is no formal itin. for Kenya since we are doing a private tour as an "extension" to our Egypt trip. I thought since our tour company is from England (Abercrombie & Kent), then our tour mates would be from England, but they're all from the U.S.--TX, MA, NY, UT, CA, and a couple from Calgary, Canada.

Last Minute Details:

Got the passport, got the visas for both Kenya and Egypt. Now we're working on getting a new camera that will allow us to take photos of wildlife from a distance in Kenya. Still working on getting a house/pet sitter. Our first vacation without Nicole! I'm hoping to post updates and photos as much as we can while we're gone. We have heard that there might not be internet connections in Kenya, but I'm thinking that our hotels/camps would have the connections. Apple's new I Pad is SOOOO much better than a laptop, and so light weight.

I'm trying to talk David into taking a balloon ride in Kenya, but he's hesitating a little. We'll be in Kenya from Sept. 22 - 29th, and then we'll be in Egypt until October 12th. We'll miss foliage season here in New England, but the trip is worth it!